Luang Prabang Part 3: Tak Bat & Kuang Si Waterfalls
A LONG POST. Dividing it into 2 parts: Tak Bat, Kuang Si Waterfalls
TAK BAT
It was 5am. The guesthouse caretaker woke up as I attempted to sneakily open the main doors of the guesthouse(and failed miserably) and he very nicely opened the doors for me. Guilty.
Tak Bat was the first on my itinerary for the day. I was initially hesitant to view this alms giving ceremony as negative reviews inundated in the internet. 'Not authentic' 'The monks are suffering because of the tourists' 'Tourists are ruining this age old tradition' 'Boycott to preserve Luang Prabang'. But the Singaporean couple I met at Garavek the night before convinced me otherwise. They acknowledged the negatives that inconsiderate tourists bring to this sacred ritual, but as long as you do it respectfully, it doesn't bring any harm.
Empty roads greeted me with the occasional passer-by and I planned to go to Sisvagong Road were tourists often go for Tak bat. On my way, however, along a narrow side-street, I saw locals kneeling at the side of the road. There was a certain Zen in the silence. It was very peaceful and serene and I leaned on a wall, just observing them prepare the alms and themselves. And then the orange robed monks appeared.
I felt like I was intruding but I really wanted to see what happened next. So.. I hid behind a car (which I'm pretty sure did not help) and watched. What I witnessed was a far cry from the horrible reviews. It was unadulterated, sincere and strangely (for a non-Buddhist) humbling. There was something very intimate in the simple act of planting the rice into the monks' bowls. It was almost spiritual. Everyone present was silent.
And I couldn't help but take a photo. I was hesitant at first. It felt like I was joining the group of disrespectful, ignorant tourists who uses flash photography and stick their lenses in front of the monks' faces. But hey, I was doing it secretly. I don't think they were aware of my phone and I was kinda far away, attempting to be hidden.. So I guess I did not commit a sacrilege? This mental debate aside, I appreciated and felt extremely lucky to be able to watch an authentic tak bat.
The sun was starting to light up the sky with a light blue hue and I walked towards the Post Office. Here, tourists were aplenty and I was approached a few times by women selling sticky rice and mats to partake in the tourist Tak Bat. Nope, not gonna happen. The procession here started and yeah, I witnessed the horrible tourist actions listed online. It was disgusting. But I should not discount the fact that yes, there were many tourists who were respectful and obeyed the rules so that's a glimmer of hope for humanity.
KUANG SI WATERFALL
'8am. 50000 kip. See waterfall?'
I shook hands with the tuktuk driver to seal the deal. I was to pay later before boarding.
Kuang Si waterfalls was my MUST SEE in Luang Prabang after watching it's turquoise blue waters on many travel blogs and videos and people raving about it's beauty. And to bump to a guy who did not overcharge and whose arrangements fit my plans, it almost felt like fate. Day 2 was turning out great from the start!
After breakfast at Joma's Cafe (for a price that would cost me double or even more if I had the same thing in a café in Singapore), I went back to the tuktuk...and it was gone. I was told the driver gathered enough people and left early.
TIP: Arrangements like these are informaleven with the hand shaking so it is advisable to reach the tuktuk early! In my case, 30 mins wasn't early enough!
Other tuktuk drivers approached me with their offers. 50000 kip would mean waiting for other people and they claimed the wait would take 3 hours. Instead, they tried to make me charter their tuktuk for 180000 kip which went down to 150000 kip when I displayed my disinterest. Some of the drivers were so persistent that they unnerved and almost overwhelmed. I even considered not visiting the falls. And that's when the 'knight in shining armour' came in.
He looked and acted more demure than the other intrusive drivers and I was the one who actually approached him in the hopes that the other drivers, let's call them 'The Persistibles!' (the Incredibles reference anyone? No, just me? Ok) He offered softly, almost drowned by the loud voices of the 'The Persistibles!', '35000 kip. We leave now? I have people'. Hehe. Irresistible offer and I agreed, much to the dismay of 'The Persistibles!' who quickly dispersed. (Please tell me you guys read 'The Persistibles!' just like how they introduce 'The Incredibles!' cause that would make it more lighthearted and fun. Try it!). He led me to his tuktuk who already had 2 Korean girls and we quickly became friends! We are of the same age and I entertained them with a few Korean words that I know. We picked up another passenger (a solo female traveller from California) and then off we went! Or so we thought..
We went in circles round the area for another 10 minutes, searching for more tourists to fill the tuktuk... which didn't happen. Our driver conveniently had this phone call and asked us to alight and transfer to this van. Deeply confused, the four of us pretty much followed and we squeezed into the van which already had another two Korean girls and a family from China. This time, we really went off to the waterfalls.
We passed by lush greenery, glimpses of Laotian villages and even an elephant (might be a part of an elephant park) along that steep but well-paved road. We reached the entrance of the falls a little bit past 10 and all of us agreed to be meet at the van at 12 30- ample time. I was expecting tourists to heavily dominate the vicinity of the falls but there were only a handful (or maybe around 4 left-and-right hands full) of visitors which made the trip feel exclusive and comfortable. The other tourists I encountered were really friendly! I had photos with my 2 new Korean friends, helped a Chinese lady, Thai teenagers and a young American lady take photos (and they did the same for me).. So many small talks, which I usually hate but these were so light hearted and cheerful I really enjoyed them! And then I met with the majestic, glorious, gorgeous tallest layer of the Kuang Si waterfalls. Breathtaking!
I attempted to find a secret pool but failed and ended up at the top of the waterfalls.
Then comes the tricky part down, which is pretty much trial and error. If the path ends abruptly, just do a U-turn and try other trails. And I reached the bottom!
Everyone was back on time except for the Chinese family.. And we waited and we waited... and we waited.. For one hour. When they finally came, there was a mini-argument between the Korean girls and the latecomers. But hey,be the bigger person and let bygones be bygones man.
Back in Luang Prabang, I had a cheap lunch at a non-descript roadside noodle store.
TAK BAT
It was 5am. The guesthouse caretaker woke up as I attempted to sneakily open the main doors of the guesthouse
Tak Bat was the first on my itinerary for the day. I was initially hesitant to view this alms giving ceremony as negative reviews inundated in the internet. 'Not authentic' 'The monks are suffering because of the tourists' 'Tourists are ruining this age old tradition' 'Boycott to preserve Luang Prabang'. But the Singaporean couple I met at Garavek the night before convinced me otherwise. They acknowledged the negatives that inconsiderate tourists bring to this sacred ritual, but as long as you do it respectfully, it doesn't bring any harm.
Empty roads greeted me with the occasional passer-by and I planned to go to Sisvagong Road were tourists often go for Tak bat. On my way, however, along a narrow side-street, I saw locals kneeling at the side of the road. There was a certain Zen in the silence. It was very peaceful and serene and I leaned on a wall, just observing them prepare the alms and themselves. And then the orange robed monks appeared.
 |
| I tried to be like a ninja and be unseen. Keyword: TRIED |
I felt like I was intruding but I really wanted to see what happened next. So.. I hid behind a car (which I'm pretty sure did not help) and watched. What I witnessed was a far cry from the horrible reviews. It was unadulterated, sincere and strangely (for a non-Buddhist) humbling. There was something very intimate in the simple act of planting the rice into the monks' bowls. It was almost spiritual. Everyone present was silent.
And I couldn't help but take a photo. I was hesitant at first. It felt like I was joining the group of disrespectful, ignorant tourists who uses flash photography and stick their lenses in front of the monks' faces. But hey, I was doing it secretly. I don't think they were aware of my phone and I was kinda far away, attempting to be hidden.. So I guess I did not commit a sacrilege? This mental debate aside, I appreciated and felt extremely lucky to be able to watch an authentic tak bat.
 |
| The monks stopped and chanted a mantra as the locals held their hands together in meditation |
The sun was starting to light up the sky with a light blue hue and I walked towards the Post Office. Here, tourists were aplenty and I was approached a few times by women selling sticky rice and mats to partake in the tourist Tak Bat. Nope, not gonna happen. The procession here started and yeah, I witnessed the horrible tourist actions listed online. It was disgusting. But I should not discount the fact that yes, there were many tourists who were respectful and obeyed the rules so that's a glimmer of hope for humanity.
 |
| And this boys and girls is a negative demonstration. This is a screenshot from a video I took. She really did go to the monk's faces and snapped away. Not nice. |
'8am. 50000 kip. See waterfall?'
I shook hands with the tuktuk driver to seal the deal. I was to pay later before boarding.
Kuang Si waterfalls was my MUST SEE in Luang Prabang after watching it's turquoise blue waters on many travel blogs and videos and people raving about it's beauty. And to bump to a guy who did not overcharge and whose arrangements fit my plans, it almost felt like fate. Day 2 was turning out great from the start!
 |
| Went on a detour to the river side. It was so peaceful! |
After breakfast at Joma's Cafe (for a price that would cost me double or even more if I had the same thing in a café in Singapore), I went back to the tuktuk...and it was gone. I was told the driver gathered enough people and left early.
TIP: Arrangements like these are informal
 |
| Pretty little boats to brighten up the mood! 😊😊😊 |
Other tuktuk drivers approached me with their offers. 50000 kip would mean waiting for other people and they claimed the wait would take 3 hours. Instead, they tried to make me charter their tuktuk for 180000 kip which went down to 150000 kip when I displayed my disinterest. Some of the drivers were so persistent that they unnerved and almost overwhelmed. I even considered not visiting the falls. And that's when the 'knight in shining armour' came in.
He looked and acted more demure than the other intrusive drivers and I was the one who actually approached him in the hopes that the other drivers, let's call them 'The Persistibles!' (the Incredibles reference anyone? No, just me? Ok) He offered softly, almost drowned by the loud voices of the 'The Persistibles!', '35000 kip. We leave now? I have people'. Hehe. Irresistible offer and I agreed, much to the dismay of 'The Persistibles!' who quickly dispersed. (Please tell me you guys read 'The Persistibles!' just like how they introduce 'The Incredibles!' cause that would make it more lighthearted and fun. Try it!). He led me to his tuktuk who already had 2 Korean girls and we quickly became friends! We are of the same age and I entertained them with a few Korean words that I know. We picked up another passenger (a solo female traveller from California) and then off we went! Or so we thought..
 |
| View from the short lived tuk tuk ride |
We went in circles round the area for another 10 minutes, searching for more tourists to fill the tuktuk... which didn't happen. Our driver conveniently had this phone call and asked us to alight and transfer to this van. Deeply confused, the four of us pretty much followed and we squeezed into the van which already had another two Korean girls and a family from China. This time, we really went off to the waterfalls.
We passed by lush greenery, glimpses of Laotian villages and even an elephant (might be a part of an elephant park) along that steep but well-paved road. We reached the entrance of the falls a little bit past 10 and all of us agreed to be meet at the van at 12 30- ample time. I was expecting tourists to heavily dominate the vicinity of the falls but there were only a handful (or maybe around 4 left-and-right hands full) of visitors which made the trip feel exclusive and comfortable. The other tourists I encountered were really friendly! I had photos with my 2 new Korean friends, helped a Chinese lady, Thai teenagers and a young American lady take photos (and they did the same for me).. So many small talks, which I usually hate but these were so light hearted and cheerful I really enjoyed them! And then I met with the majestic, glorious, gorgeous tallest layer of the Kuang Si waterfalls. Breathtaking!
 |
| One of the stalls near the drop-off point/parking area. No worries, this was taken with permission so get lost you pedophilia accusations |
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| Finally here!! |
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| On the way to the falls, lies a bear rescue centre where cute rescued bears roam safely. See how fluffy this bear is? I think it needs a big BEAR HUUUGGGGG. There were cute soft toys as well for sale (because that is where they earn their funds and not from the waterfall admission fees) but I was on a tight budget so 🤐 |
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| First gimpse of that turquoise waters |
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| 고마워 친구야 !! |
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| The friendly chatty lady from China was my posing instructor. 'Ni de shou kai yi dian. Dui dui hen hao! Lai pai' |
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| Ok so enough with the teasing.. here is the much raved about (and it deserves all that attention) KUANG SI WATERFALLS |
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| Ok fine.. here is the unobstructed natural beauty |
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| One of the lower layers |
I attempted to find a secret pool but failed and ended up at the top of the waterfalls.
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| Trail for the better part of the journey. After this, I was bashing, climbing and holding onto tree roots for my dear life,. |
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| Misty top! Pass that barrier and off you go on an unharnessed |
Then comes the tricky part down, which is pretty much trial and error. If the path ends abruptly, just do a U-turn and try other trails. And I reached the bottom!
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| Nice hor!! |
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| Sometimes you walk by the track.. |
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| And sometimes you don't |
Everyone was back on time except for the Chinese family.. And we waited and we waited... and we waited.. For one hour. When they finally came, there was a mini-argument between the Korean girls and the latecomers. But hey,be the bigger person and let bygones be bygones man.
 |
| And this my friends, is how to use the self timer |
Back in Luang Prabang, I had a cheap lunch at a non-descript roadside noodle store.
 |
| My late lunch. Simple but delicious! The friendly locals used hand gestures and mimed to teach me how to eat (with the condiments and what not). |
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